Starting off Monday's runway shows, Tory Burch's latest collection took cues from beauty in unexpected places, issuing a nod to mod with some modern refinements. An abundance of embroidery, fringe and prepster smocking came as no surprise, while plunging necklines, breezy silhouettes and twists on Burch's iconic caftan evoked beaches and blue seas. As the show progressed, the palette softened from daytime bold reds and blues to an equally at-ease iridescent pastel organza.

Romance once again reigned at Rodarte, where pure femininity merged with shots of glam-rock sparkle. (Fluorescent lights draped with vines and soft fabrics encapsulated the idea.) The tactility of lace, furs, beads and tweed featured heavily in the collection inspired, say the Mulleavy sisters, by poets like Elizabeth Barrett Browning and Emily Dickinson, and the music of Leonard Cohen and Electric Light Orchestra. That explains the multi-century mash-up that spanned from elaborate Victorian gowns to light-catching jumpsuits that would look right at home beneath a disco ball. (Also of note: metallic embellishments crowning the models' crowns.)

In the second season with Peter Copping at the helm, Oscar de la Renta's legacy proved to be in very capable hands, indeed. The creative director managed to meld his vision with the fashion house's heritage, sending exquisite dresses with modern details down the runway: a flash of sheer lace here, a pair of espadrilles there. The red carnation -an allusion to de la Renta's Latin heritage, as well as his lapel flower of choice-figured prominently: it was set adrift on gowns, immaculately embroidered and laid atop each attendee's seat.

Shop: current season Oscar de la Renta

Narciso Rodriguez credited the ocean floor with inspiring his latest offering, which translated to softer, more sinuous silhouettes than last season. Fabric that draped and skimmed the body was key: gathers emphasized the waist and bias-cut skirts revealed a sensual flash of leg. Beadwork and bursts of color -bright by the designer's standards-served as punctuation throughout.

Shop: current season Narciso Rodriguez

- Katie Christian